Igavi Wines & Katsia da Guneba

Location: winery (marani) in the village of Zeindari in the Imereti region; single vineyards in Imereti and Lechkhumi, in Western Georgia

Owner & winemaker: Aidan Raftery

Vineyard management: practicing organic 

Soils: loam, sandy clay, limestone 

Main varieties: Ancient indigenous Georgian varieties including Tsolikouri, Vanis Chkhaveri, Mgaloblishvili, and more

Winemaking: Hand-harvest only, with reds and whites mostly destemmed. Whites are mostly direct-pressed or spend one day on the skins; reds are macerated for 1-2 weeks. Grapes are gently pressed by hand using Aidan’s homemade basket press. Fermentation takes place in open stainless steel vats, or in traditional kvevris. No fining, no filtering, and no added SO2. 

Forget about garage wineries — tucked away in the village of Zeindari, in Western Georgia’s Imereti region, sits a cow shed full of kvevri. The traditional Georgian clay vessels huddle alongside 60-year-old acacia barrels, a custom basket press made of old Georgian oak, and gleaming stainless steel tanks in this small but mighty marani, or winery, where Aidan Raftery tends to bubbling fermentations of indigenous grapes like Tsolikouri and Vanis Chkhaveri, names like incantations. 

The wines themselves are spell-binding. Raftery, who moved to Georgia from New Zealand in 2019, spent six years remodeling this ancient stone structure into a home for his vibrant, palpably living wines. He helms two labels: Igavi Wines, a grower-focused project with single-vineyards in Imereti and Lechkhumi, and Katsia da Guneba, a field blend from old vines near his winery. 

Igavi is the Georgian term for folk tale, a fitting name for a winery with a story to tell. Raftery’s winemaking journey began in 2013 in Melbourne, Australia, when he started with a proper garage winery at home, crafting a house label for his renowned bistro and natural wine bar, Persillade. In 2017, he closed the business and began importing wine, soon finding himself on a trip to wine’s supposed birthplace: Georgia. There, he later met the woman who’d go on to become his wife — Ellie Bukhaidze, whom he describes as “the most wonderful human on the whole planet.” Gushing about her, he adds, “She helps me with everything in the winery, and I’d be lost without her.” 

On that first visit — during which time he became so enamored of the country, its people, and its culture that he soon after bought a house and vineyard — he heard a particular fable which left such an impression that it ultimately inspired the name of his winery; The story goes that when young soldiers would head off to battle, they would keep a cutting from their family vineyard right beside their heart, so if they were killed in battle a vineyard would spring up around them. Honoring this tale, each of Igavi’s labels features a different artist’s interpretation of the story. 

Igavi Wines are a celebration of the local growers in Western Georgia, focused on old and unique single vineyard sites in Imereti and Lechkhumi, all of which are farmed organically and fermented with indigenous yeast. Here, the soil is primarily dark loam or loamy clay, all studded with limestone, and vines range from 20 to 120-years old. 

Imereti is an expansive and diverse wine region in Western Georgia, marked by a subtropical climate that remains warm and humid throughout the year. Lechkhumi is small by comparison, threading through the mountains in the north west of Georgia. There’s ample rain year-round, and while summers are toasty, the nights are typically quite cool. 

Raftery works primarily with a bevy of local and ancient grapes: the vineyard near his winery, which is used for the Katsia da Guneba wines, is a field blend of Tsolikouri (a softer white grape with lower acidity), as well as Tsolikouri Bazaleti (a delicate, higher acid white grape), and Vanis Chkhaveri (an aromatic light-red grape). 

In Western Georgia, wines tend to shy away from the weeks and months of maceration often seen in the country’s other winemaking regions; here, grapes are typically destemmed and direct-pressed. At the most, Raftery’s white wines will spend one day on the skins, while his reds see up to two weeks of skin contact. Almost all of his wines age for one year on the gross lees in kvevris. The wines are truly minimal intervention — they’re never fined, filtered, or produced with any additional SO2. 

We’re thrilled to welcome Igavi Wines and Katsia da Guneba to our growing portfolio of winemakers from Georgia, a region steeped in some 8,000 years of winemaking history. 

Wines

• Vanis Chkhaveri 
• Mgaloblishvili 
• Aladasturi
• Orbeluri Ojaleshi 
• Tskhvedianis Tetra
• Tsolikouri Imereti
• Tsolikouri Lechkhumi
• Katsia da Guneba, Patara Vuali
• Dzelshavi Rosé

Vanis Chkhaveri 2023

Winemaker’s note: “Imereti is a very diverse region in western Georgia with dramatically different climatic conditions in all the different subregions but its hallmark is that it is subtropical; warm & humid throughout. This site is on a sheltered, gently undulating hill with almost all day sun and is co-planted with Tsolikouri Bazaleti.”

Grapes: 50% Vanis Chkhaveri, 50% Tsolikouri Bazaleti

Vineyard: Dikhashkho, Imereti. Organically farmed by Aidan’s friend, Oleg Sulkhaneishvili. Dark loam studded with limestone pebbles. North facing, 130 meters above sea level. 20 year old vines. 

Making of: Grapes are hand-harvested and destemmed, then spend one week macerating on the skins. Fermentation takes place in open-top plastic vats, with indigenous yeast. The wine then ages for 12 months on gross lees, in large a 300L qvevri. Unfined, unfiltered, with no additional sulphur. 

Personality: The 2023 yield was so small that Aidan co-fermented the two grapes together to fill the qvevri. A lush medley of red berries, just ripened, with some white strawberry notes. Think of it as red wine for white wine lovers. Delicious with Charkhali Tkemlit, a local Georgian dish of beetroot in sour plum sauce. 

Mgaloblishvili

Label illustrated by Rox Colk 

Winemaker’s note: “Lechkhumi is a mountainous region in the north west of Georgia and one of the smallest winemaking regions. It has some of the highest rainfall and although summer here can be very warm the nights are generally cool. A sheltered amphitheatre site in full sun for lovely gentle ripening of Mgaloblishvili.”

Grapes: Mgaloblishvili

Vineyard: Muri, Lechkhumi. Organically farmed by Aidan’s friend, Giorgi Kopaliani. Loamy clay with limestone boulders. North-east facing, 530 meters above sea level, 120 year old vines.

Making of (2024): Grapes are hand-harvested, de-stemmed, and macerated for 4 days, then basket-pressed with the juice transferred to qvevri. The wine remains on fine lees for 9 months before bottling. Unfined, unfiltered, no added sulphur. 

Making of (2023): Grapes are hand-harvested and undergo whole-bunch maceration for two weeks. Fermentation takes place in open plastic vats with indigenous yeast. Aged for 12 months on gros lees in a large 300L qvevri. Unfined, unfiltered, with no added sulphur.  

Personality: Floral and a little flirtatious, but with intriguing depth. Darjeeling tea, hibiscus flower and wild rosehips. Light but layered and contemplative. Pale salmon in color with pink reflections despite the two weeks whole bunch maceration. Fluid through the front palate and tightening up at the back with a wonderful three-dimensional tannin profile. Aidan’s recommendation for a local dish pairing is Ziskhora (dry cured Svanetian blood sausage). 

2024: A hot summer and early harvest with younger stems meant no whole-bunch fermentation. This vintage is tight and long with lovely mouth-watering acidity and the same pretty floral notes.

Aladasturi

Label illustrated by Zizi Adamia 

Winemaker’s note: “Imereti is a very diverse region in western Georgia with dramatically different climactic conditions in all the different subregions but its hallmark is that it is subtropical; warm & humid throughout. This site is on an exposed hill with almost all day sun and very windy, great ripening potential for Aladasturi with lower disease pressure.”

Grapes: Aladasturi

Vineyard: Kveda Gora, Imereti. Organically farmed by Aidan’s friend, Zviad Bibichadze. Sandy clay with limestone. North-east facing slopes, 260 meters above sea level. 30-40 year old vines.

Making of (2024): Grapes are hand-harvested, all destemmed, and left to macerate for 2 weeks before basket pressing with the juice transferred to qvevri. The wine remains on fine lees for 9 months before the qvevri are blended together and
bottled. Unfined, unfiltered, no added sulphur. 

Making of (2023): Grapes are hand-harvested and 85% destemmed. The whole berries and bunches then undergo 2 weeks of maceration. Fermentation takes place in open plastic vats with indigenous yeast. Aged for 12 months on gross lees in large 300L qvevri. Unfined, unfiltered, no added sulphur.  

Personality: Light and nervy red wine with very fine, gentle tannins. Perfumed and spicy with a lift of volatile acidity, this juicy wine brings to mind some of our favorite Loire Valley Pineau d’Aunis. Aidan’s favorite local pairing is Khaladetsi (pigs head and trotter terrine). 

2024: This year’s vintage is more tranquil with a lovely succulence, fine grained structure and lengthy finish.

Orbeluri Ojaleshi 2023

Label illustrated by Amane Cárdenas. 

Winemaker’s note: “Lechkhumi is a mountainous region in the north west of Georgia and one of the smallest winemaking regions. It has some of the highest rainfall and although summer here can be very warm the nights are generally cool. An exposed hill site in full sun with near perfect growing conditions for Orbeluri Ojaleshi.”

Grapes: Orbeluri Ojaleshi 

Vineyard: Orbeli, Lechkhumi. Organically farmed by Aidan’s friend, Rezo Gvishiani. Heavy clay rich in limestone. West facing, at 760 meters above sea level, 25 year old vines.

Making of: Grapes are hand-harvested and 85% destemmed. The whole berries and bunches then undergo 2 weeks of maceration. Fermentation takes place in open plastic vats with indigenous yeast. Aged for 12 months on gross lees in large 550L qvevri. Unfined, unfiltered, with no added sulphur.  

Personality: Extremely delicate, weightless and gentle. An incredibly aromatic wine: blueberry with spent church incense, violet, gun smoke. Aidan suggests pairing it with Gadazelili Lobio (spiced kidney bean stew). 

Tskhvedianis Tetra

Label illustrated by Armel Ranc. 

Winemaker’s note: “Lechkhumi is a mountainous region in the north west of Georgia and one of the smallest winemaking regions. It has some of the highest rainfall and although summer here can be very warm the nights are generally cool.”

Grapes: Tskhvedianis Tetra

Vineyard: Tsilamieri, Lechkhumi. Organically farmed by Aidan’s friend, Guram Lartsvliani. Steep 45 degree slope of heavy clay rich in limestone, south facing. 780 meters above sea level, 40 year old vines.

Making of (2024): Grapes are hand-harvested, destemmed and macerated for 24 hours before basket pressing with the juice transferred to an old Georgian acacia barrel, left untopped. The wine remains on fine lees and under flor for 12 months before bottling. Unfined, unfiltered, with no added sulphur. 

Making of (2023): Grapes are hand-harvested and directly pressed into stainless steel tanks, where they ferment with indigenous yeast at ambient temperatures. Aged for 12 months on gross lees in large 500L Georgian acacia barrels, untopped. Unfined, unfiltered, with no added sulphur. 

Personality: The barrels were under a light flor with a small amount of oxygen, so the influence is subtle. Gentle and delicate, soft acidity and subtle salty minerality. Lemon peel with hints of chamomile. Aidan loves this alongside Kalmakhis Mtsvadi, a local Georgian dish of barbecued river trout.Tsolikouri Imereti

Tsolikouri Imereti

Label illustrated by Nino Metreveli.

Winemaker’s note: “The two types of Tsolikouri are very different, Melqo when ripe is a deep burnished gold colour while Bazaleti retains its blue-green appearance even when ripe. The two are co-planted and harvested together with the Melqo component having much higher sugar than the Bazaleti, but picked when the two are in balance and harmony with one another.”

Grapes: 50% Tsolikouri Melqo, 50% Tsolikouri Bazaleti

Vineyard: Kveda Gora, Imereti. A very sheltered site with forest surrounding from all sides and sitting in a small gully, so it’s typically warmer and more disease prone.Organically farmed by Aidan’s friend, Avto Karchkhadze. Loamy clay with limestone, north-east facing, 235 meters above sea level, 30-40 year old vines.

Making of (2024): Grapes are hand-harvested, destemmed and macerated for 24 hours before basket pressing with the juice transferred to old Georgian acacia barrels and left untopped. The wine remains on fine lees and under flor for 12 months before the barrels are blended and bottled. Unfined, unfiltered, no added sulphur.

Making of (2023): Grapes are hand-harvested and soak for 24 hours before being pressed into stainless steel tanks, where they ferment with indigenous yeast at ambient temperatures. Aged for 12 months on gross lees in extra large 1500L Georgian acacia barrels, untopped. Unfined, unfiltered, with no added sulphur. 

Personality: Light & bright, green pear, fresh quince, lime leaf, a little flesh in the mid palate but tightened and lengthened by the acid drive. Says Aidan on the 2024 vintage: “Tight and long with lovely mouth watering acidity and more layered from the flor influence, offering up pronounced and captivating aromatics.”

Recommended local food pairing? Pkhlovani, a wild greens and sour cheese pie.

Tsolikouri Lechkhumi 2023

Label illustrated by Eto Gzirishvili.

Grapes: Tsolikouri Bazaleti

Vineyard: Tsilamieri, Lechkhumi. This particular site is east facing so only gets morning sun and is in the shade from around 1pm. As such it is a very slow ripening and cool site. Organically farmed by Aidan’s friend, Zviad Mindadze. Steep 45 degree slope of heavy clay rich in limestone, east facing. 770 meters above sea level, 40-60 year old vines.

Making of: Grapes are hand-harvested and directly pressed into stainless steel tanks, where they ferment with indigenous yeast at ambient temperatures. Aged for 12 months on gross lees in extra large 1500L Georgian acacia barrels, untopped. Unfined, unfiltered, with no added sulphur.

Personality: The wine was under a light flor with a small amount of oxygen so the influence is subtle. Incredibly saline and mineral, cucumber and green apple with dried chamomile from the oxidative flor. Delicious with Gebjalia, a stretched curd cheese with mint & yogurt. 

Katsia da Guneba, Patara Vuali 2022

Grapes: 50% Tsolikouri Melqo, 50% Tsolikouri Bazaleti

Vineyard: Tsilamieri, Lechkhumi. This particular site is lower than our other Lechkhumi site and sees all day sun in a sloping valley. Organically farmed by Aidan himself. Gentle rolling slope, heavy clay rich in limestone, south facing, 600 meters above sea level, 25 year old vines planted in the late 1990s. 

Making of: Grapes are hand-harvested, foot stomped, then whole-bunch pressed before fermenting with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks. The wine then aged under flor for 2 years in a small 250L old Soviet oak barrel. This is the young release in Aidan’s series of oxidative bottlings under his Katsia da Guneba label. 2.27 grams of residual sugar. Unfined, unfiltered, with no added sulphur.

Personality: The wine was under a light flor with a small amount of oxygen for two years, allowing for a gorgeous salinity and oxidative quality. For a true Georgian treat, pair with Narchvi & Nigozi, a Svanetian cheese pressed and aged in wood with walnuts.

Dzelshavi Rosé

Winemaker’s note: “We usually vinify red and white as two separate wines,

 but in 2024 we decided that it made more sense to pick and ferment the vineyard as one. It’s more in line with what we hope to achieve by working with old single vineyards.”

Making of: Grapes are hand-harvested, destemmed, foot-crushed and macerated for 24 hours before basket pressing with the juice transferred to qvevri. The wine remains on fine lees for 9 months before bottling. Unfined, unfiltered, with no added sulphur.

Personality: “The wine is a journey through the bottle, with all elements popping at different moments — creating a fascinating experience if you spend time with it.”